Will Michelin Coming To Vancouver Be A Good Thing?

What does Michelin offer and is it worth it?

Jamie Mah @grahammah

When news broke last summer that Michelin was coming to Vancouver, part of me laughed at the notion. It seemed strange to think of this city as being one destined to be a part of the Michelin umbrella. Not that we lacked for skill or quality, but more so what Michelin in my mind had come to symbolize. The first of such thoughts was Gordon Ramsay’s first foray into Tv land with his manic and obsessive, Boiling Point. Debuting in 1998, while on the precipice of receiving his third Michelin star (one he’d finally attain in 2001), the then hothead gave an illuminating behind the scenes look at what the drive for Michelin entailed. It was enthralling theater to say the least, even if cringeworthy moments were littered throughout the season. His ego is the stuff of legends. 

Nevertheless, I doubt all who’ve craved the adulation Michelin purports to distill have led their teams in similar fashion. I’m sure some have and still continue to do so (sadly), however, by and large the world of 1998 is no more, and as we march into what dining has become in 2022, a grandeur view of it’s importance begins to focus. 

Is Michelin even needed for a city like Vancouver?

With mountain views and sandy beaches all along our shores, most of us spend our days outside enjoying the spectacle that is this city. Our dining preferences are curated with ease in mind. Few diners crave the suit and dress look and as such our restaurants have operated accordingly. We therefore have only a handful of restaurants who guide their ships along the lines of what Michelin expects. We DO have sublime food and drink everywhere. We, however, DO NOT have many who subscribe to the Michelin ethos. And frankly, that is okay. 

Instagram changed everything ten years ago. It lifted the veil of what Alexandra Gill sought to uncover. Photos streamed in. Websites became ubiquitous. Information flowed. Narrative ensued. Critics' voices fell. Rankings and guides will always command attention, but their importance to the overall landscape seems to have shifted. The Vancouver Magazine awards just happened, and yes, they do garner intrigue, but do they make or break a restaurant's fate as they probably once did? I say no. If polled I doubt many can recall who won last year's best restaurant award. (Hint: they won it again this year.)

So what do we do with Michelin?

A few will gain entry. Many will not. Chatter will ensue…and how does it change the narrative? Locally, I don’t expect much of a difference except for a few more difficult reservations and less emphasis on what is on your plate and more on saying you dined there. Globally, for tourists especially, this recognition will help. Ease of use is there. Where to go and why. But again, many who will flock to Michelin for information can do so on several other websites. They won’t be offering much in the way of new content. 

Therefore, my last thought lands squarely with how those who are elected and those who come close react. How will they respond? Do we have a Gordon Ramsay in our midst? An egomaniac who will go for star number 2? Will some cringe from the pressure? How will their teams adjust to the spotlight? This guessing game has its benefits and I’m all for that, which invariably, might be the overall appeal for Vancouver. As much as what they offer isn’t as necessary as it once might have been, the prestige of Michelin is a real thing. Chefs and restaurateurs will take notice and indulge in their accolades. There is value in that, even if what comes along with it isn't the funnest cup of tea. With that being said, here are my picks for who will gain a star. 

St. Lawrence

Kissa Tanto

Published

Masayoshi

Cioppino’s

Looking forward to October 27th.